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Rainbow Trout Description:
Rainbow Trout are olive to bluish on the back, silvery sides, with a pink
band on the sides from head to tail. They have many small black spots on
the back, sides, adipose and dorsal fin. Distinct radiating rows of black
spots on tail fin. Generally, no spots on pectoral, pelvic and anal fins.
They are normally 8-32 inches in length and weight 6 ounces to over 21
pounds.
Location and Habitat:
They are stocked in many lakes and streams where water temperatures do not
exceed 68 degrees Fahrenheit.
Food:
They feed primarily on aquatic and terrestrial insects and small fish.
Angling:
Effective baits are worms, salmon eggs, powerbait, corn, cheese,
marshmallows, artificial lures and flies. The number one key to successful
trout fishing, is to use light line (4 to 6 pound) and small hooks (10-14
sizes), and small sinkers.
Table Quality:
Depending on the fishes diet, the meat can be white to orange-red in
color. The meat is firm, flaky and is considered excellent eating. Like
most trout species, the meat is better fresh than frozen.
Brown
Trout Description:
Brown trout where imported from Europe in 1931 and are still considered
and exotic fish. They are olive-brown with yellowish sides. Some orange or
red spots on the sides, spots often encircled with light yellow or white
Dark spots on back and sides. Tail fin usually unspotted or vaguely
spotted. Adipose fin usually orange or reddish. They are 6 to 29 inches
long and weigh from 6 ounces to over 16 pounds.
Location and Habitat:
Brown trout are found in streams and some lakes in the White Mountains and
around the Mogollon Rim country. They reproduce naturally in streams and
are often associated with deep under cut banks and pools choked with woody
debris.
Food:
They feed on aquatic and terrestrial insects and fish. Adult brown trout
are voracious and eat larger food items such as crayfish and small fish,
especially other trout.
Angling:
Brown trout may be caught on the same tackle and baits as rainbow trout,
but are often more difficult to catch. The best time to catch large adult
brown trout is in fall during spawning.
Table Quality:
The meat has a pinkish or yellowish color and is good tasting. Like most
trout, they are best when eaten fresh. Some people experience a stronger
"fishy" flavor when trout have been frozen.
Brook Trout Description:
Gray to olive-green on the back. Vermiculations or worm-like markings on
the back and dorsal fin. Sides lighter in color with blue halos around
pink or red spots. White edge on lower fins and lower tail. They are 4 to
21 inches and weight from 3 ounces to over 4 pounds.
Location and Habitat:
They reproduce in streams but are most often found in lakes stocked by
Parks and Wildlife Departments. Like brown trout, brook trout are fall
spawners and are easily caught near the shore during fall spawning runs.
Food:
They feed on aquatic and terrestrial insects. Larger brook trout will eat
small fish if they are available.
Angling:
They are easy to catch, especially in the early spring or late fall when
cold water temperatures keep the fish very active. They are caught on wet
flies, small spinning lures and worms.
Table Quality:
The brook trout has a delicious flavor, with white, flaky meat. Like most
trout, they are best when eaten fresh. Some people experience a stronger
"fishy" flavor when trout have been frozen.
Fishing Techniques:
Once you've got your tackle together, your ready to practice casting. Your
first casts should be made in a large open area, such as an open lawn--and
clip the hookpoint off your fly so it doesn't end up in your ear.
Now, get your goal in mind: you want to unroll the fly line in graceful
loops that more or less resemble the letter "U" turned on its side. Now,
with about 25 feet of line laid out in a straight line in front of you,
hold the rod so it's parallel with the ground. Your elbow should be a few
inches in front and several inches to the side of your body. Now turn your
wrist up slightly so the rod is at a 45 degree angle with the ground. This
is your starting point. Here are the basic steps: 1) Keeping your wrist
stiff at the 45-degree angle, bring your forearm and elbow back and
slightly up, lifting the line off the ground. 2) When your forearm is
nearly vertical, snap your wrist back slightly, and stop the rod there,
shooting the line behind you. 3) Wait for a moment, until you feel the
weight of the line behind you. 4) Keeping your wrist stiff and tilted
slightly backward, bring your forearm and elbow forward and slightly down,
starting the line forward again. 5) When your forearm is nearly back to
the starting position, snap you wrist forward to the 45 degree position,
and stop the rod, shooting the line forward in a graceful loop. 6) Wait a
moment until you feel the weight of the line in front of you. 7) Start
again.
Step 2 causes the most problems with beginning casters because it's very
easy to let your wrist flop all the way backward, causing the loop open
too far. Again, tilt your wrist slightly backward--and only slightly--then
stop. Also, be sure to make fairly hard stops, because it's the stop that
puts the loop in the line.
Spinning
To free the line for casting on a spinning reel you must lift (or "open")
the bail (the semi-circular metal wire that nearly surrounds the spool).
On some models, this can be done by simply lifting with your index finger
a lever (or "trigger") built into the bail. To retrieve, turn the handle;
the bail closes automatically.
To cast with a spinning outfit, open the bail and catch the line with the
index finger of you rod hand, letting the lure or bait dangle a few inches
from the end of the rod tip. Line the rod up with the target. Then, with
your casting elbow close to your body, use your forearm and wrist to sweep
the rod back then abruptly forward. As the rod tip snaps forward let go of
the line. This cast can be done sidearm, semi-sidearm, overhead, and
backhanded to best suit the situation.
When you need to cast into a tight spot, especially beneath overhanging
brush, the above cast performed sidearm with the rod tip very close to the
surface of the water is ideal. Often all that is required here is a soft
flip of the wrist rather than a full-blown cast. Another cast that's
highly useful for getting into tight spots is the pendulum cast. Here, you
let the lure or bait dangle further from the rod tip--say 2 to 3 feet. You
can hold the free line in you non-rod hand or as above. Then, with the rod
straight out in front of you, let the lure swing toward and away from your
body like a pendulum. When you feel the weight of the lure at the end of
its back swing, flip your wrist forward and release the line. These two
casts are essential skills for fishing many small brown trout streams.
Practice both on your front lawn using a paper plate for a target.
Baitcasting
Although baitcasting tackle is more difficult to master than spinning or
spincasting gear, it offers unmatched casting accuracy--accuracy that
comes only through learning the subtle art of "thumbing" the baitcasting
reel. "Thumbing" involves both snubbing the spool at the end of a
cast to present a lure or bait delicately and precisely, and using your
thumb to slow (or "brake") the revolving spool as it pays out line.
Failure to do the latter results in the dreaded backlash. The only way to
get it right is to practice. Make the basic overhaed cast by holding the
rod in front of you with your casting elbow at your side. Turn the rod so
the reel handle faces straight up, which gives your wrist more freedom of
movement.
Next, hold your thumb on the spool, push the freespool button and line the
rod up with the target. Sweep the rod back to an upright position, using
only your forearm and wrist, and snap it toward the target with enough
force to overshoot the mark.
Stop the forward cast when the rod is nearly level to the water and ride
the spool lightly with your thumb as the lure sails through the air. When
the lure nears the target, increase thumb pressure to halt the lure at the
desired desired distance.
Spincasting
The spincasting reel goes on top of a baitcasting rod. A large button at
the back of the reel lets you release the line with your thumb. Cast by
holding the rod in front of you with your casting elbow tight to your
side. Turn the rod so the reel handle faces up to give your wrist more
flexibility. Press the button on the back of the reel with the thumb of
your rod hand. Rainbow Trout Fishing Techniques
Once you've got your tackle together, your ready to practice casting. Your
first casts should be made in a large open area, such as an open lawn--and
clip the hookpoint off your fly so it doesn't end up in your ear.
Now, get your goal in mind: you want to unroll the fly line in graceful
loops that more or less resemble the letter "U" turned on its side. Now,
with about 25 feet of line laid out in a straight line in front of you,
hold the rod so it's parallel with the ground. Your elbow should be a few
inches in front and several inches to the side of your body. Now turn your
wrist up slightly so the rod is at a 45 degree angle with the ground. This
is your starting point. Here are the basic steps: 1) Keeping your wrist
stiff at the 45-degree angle, bring your forearm and elbow back and
slighly up, lifting the line off the ground. 2) When your forearm is
nearly vertical, snap your wrist back slightly, and stop the rod there,
shooting the line behind you. 3) Wait for a moment, until you feel the
weight of the line behind you. 4) Keeping your wrist stiff and tilted
slightly backward, bring your forearm and elbow forward and slightly down,
starting the line forward again. 5) When your forearm is nearly back to
the starting p osition, snap you wrist forward to the 45 degree position,
and stop the rod,
shooting the line forward in a graceful loop. 6) Wait a moment until you
feel the weight of the line in front of you. 7) Start again.
Step 2 causes the most problems with beginning casters because it's very
easy to let your wrist flop all the way backward, causing the loop open
too far. Again, tilt your wrist slightly backward--and only slightly--then
stop. Also, be sure to make fairly hard stops, because it's the stop that
puts the loop in the line.
More
about Lake Trout:
Overview - Lake trout do not leap,
but instead wage a strong, determined underwater battle. Most are taken by
trolling with spoons or minnow-like plugs attached to wire-line rigs or
downriggers. They can also be taken by bottom-fishing with whole or cut
fish. Siscowets (fat trout) are seldom caught on hook and line because
they live at extreme depths.
Lake trout require, cold, clear, well oxygenated water, so they are found
almost exclusively in oligotropic lakes. In summer they often move to
depths of 50 to 100 feet, but in spring and fall you can find them at
depths of 20 feet or less. They prefer water from 40 to 52 degree F. The
siscowets live at depths of 330 to 500 feet, but have been found as deep
as 600 feet.
Eating Habits
In most waters, lake trout rely heavily on small fish like ciscoes, smelt,
or sculpins. But in some lakes, they feed almost exclusively on plankton,
insects, or crustaceans. In this situation, lake trout never reach the
size of those in fish-eating populations.
Age & Growth
Lake trout are slow-growing and long-lived, sometimes reaching an age of
40 years. In the far North, it may take 15 years for a laker to reach 2
pounds.
World Record
1991 - 66 pounds, 8 ounces, caught in Great Bear Lake, Northwest
Territories. A 102- pound lake trout was taken in a gillnet in Lake
Athabasca, Saskatchewan, in 1961.
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